Perched high above the Andean city of Cusco – the jewel of Peru and hub of its tourist activity – liesSacsayhuaman. Sometimes pronounced “sexy woman” by gringos, this imposing fortress boasts a wealth of mystery and tradition, and forms one of the best examples of the famed Inca stonework to be found anywhere in the country.
The site is a 45-minute walk from the city center, and one of the first things the visitor notices when arriving is its sheer size. It is easy to feel dwarfed when standing next to these huge stones, some of which weigh around 130 tons and cast an impressive shadow. The biggest cornerstone stands 28 feet (8.5 meters) high. Tiered walls, three in total, stretch in a zig-zag formation for almost 1,200 feet (360 meters) each and lead up to a ruined tower, which is in the process of being reconstructed.
Grassy pathways run between the walls and are interrupted at intervals by towering stone doorways, high enough to accommodate a nine-and-a-half-foot-tall (three-meters) man. Once, the theory ran, the Incan royal family’s members were all extraordinarily tall, but the generally accepted reason for these outsized portals is that leaders were transported on sedan seats and therefore the doorway had to accommodate both the carriers and the carried.
The exact purpose and background of these astounding ruins is, as with most Inca remains, hotly disputed. While it is usually classified as a fortress, known to be the scene of a great and bloody battle in 1536 between the Spaniards and the Incas, the discovery of graves in 1982 that appear to belong to priests has shaken this theory. It is perhaps unlikely that holy men would have been buried in military ground, but of course the Incas left no written records – the language of Quecha existed only orally – so we may never know for sure.
It seems certain though that the site had more than one use. The walls of Sacsayhuaman were originally much taller, but the Spaniards stole a great portion of the stone to make their own dwellings and churches in the city of Cusco below. The Incas got the last laugh however – many of the buildings constructed by the Spanish conquerors were practically reduced to rubble by earthquakes. When they went up to Sacsayhuaman after the tremors, they were astonished – and one can only imagine somewhat annoyed – to find that the walls of the fortress were unmoved and unshaken.
Who built Sacsayhuaman?
Another theory states that perhaps the walls were not built at all by the Incas, for whom the transportation of such unwieldy blocks would have been almost impossible – after all, they never had horses or even the wheel. The theory goes on to point out that if the country is still populated by the descendants of the Incas today, why is it that they no longer build walls of such quality? How did they manage to lose this knowledge?
However, it must be remembered that in general, when humans have the choice between doing something well with perfection and taking time over it, or using labour-saving devices to get the job done quickly, the latter is usually the most popular. It is not even known for sure where the stones used to build Sacsayhuaman came from – again there are many ideas but proving anything is controversial.
It is possible that they were quarried nearby, and did not need to be transported over great distances. Certainly, when the visitor stands before the walls and observes the biggest cornerstones, four times the height of the average man, it is hard to believe that they were ever moved anywhere – they appear to be part of the landscape.
Of particular interest is the way that the rocks actually seem to curve without appearing to be carved. It is almost possible to believe that man had no hand in building these walls at all, as if the rocks themselves simply grew up out of the rain-soaked ground one misty morning. And yet, one only has to look around Cusco itself, and the other spectacular ruins found in the surrounding area, to see a common theme.
Even walls built for agricultural purposes have a certain quality to them that belies a genuine love of stonework, and any structure built as a temple or sacred place is as close to perfection as you will find anywhere in the world. However, do not expect fine, delicate carvings reminiscent of Jordan or Nepal. The finesse of Inca stonework lies in the fit – barely a human hair can pass between the joins. And all this without mortar!
Many people believe Cusco (which means navel in Quecha and signifies that the Incas believed the city to be the center of the world) is laid out in the shape of a jaguar or puma, sacred animals for the Incas. Sacsayhuaman forms the beast’s head, with the zig-zag walls either representing claws or teeth, depending on whom you talk to. In one part of the wall, the stones are laid in a pattern to depict a llama – again this is something common to the Incas, who put much store in symbolism.
Other great examples
In addition to Sacsayhuaman, there are many other sites to be found around the area that boast incredible stonework. Walking away from Cusco’s main square, the Plaza de Armas, and up to the historic and beautiful artisan district of San Blas, you pass the famous 12-angled stone, a huge block with a dozen sides of differing lengths and angles that slot perfectly into the surrounding stones. The Cusqueñans take much pride in this particular stone – which forms part of a solid wall that runs the length of the much-photographed street Hatun Rumiyoc.
In fact, there are usually at least five school children surrounding it, eager to count the sides (they know 1 to 12 in several European languages!) for interested visitors. The wall continues around the corner, where it is possible to see a layout of stones in the shape of a huge puma. The walls themselves are battered - leaning back slightly and curving elegantly around corners.
More exquisite stonemasonry is found at the Temple of the Sun, often cited as simply the best example of Inca stonework in the world. All religious sites have an unmatched quality – it is one of the markers used by archaeologists to decide for what purpose a particular building was used. For example, the agricultural terracing that can be found all over Peru and especially Cusco’s Sacred Valley region shows signs of care and expertise – most have lasted at least 500 years and are still used for farming today.
It is the holy buildings, however, that really stand out. The Temple of the Sun, known in Quecha as Qorikancha, is situated halfway along one of Cusco’s busiest streets – Avenida el Sol. Here the visitor can witness an imprint of the Spanish conquerors’ culture blending with the Incas’ own beliefs – a Catholic church built literally on the smooth and flawless foundations of Inca stonework. When the Spaniards arrived, they attempted to destroy the social systems in place in Cusco, hoping to convert any Incas that they didn’t slaughter by destroying their places of worship.
As with many archaeological sites around the world, the Inca ruins show signs of the subsequent rulers’ attempts to undermine the society they had overthrown – what better way to make a nation kneel than to break up its temples to build new churches? This is, however, one of the reasons why sites like Sacsayhuaman are so impressive after so many years – they are built so solidly they are almost impossible to destroy.
Even in the last 50 years, when people have tried to steal stones from the ruins, dynamite is barely enough to dislodge one of the huge blocks. Thankfully, the site is now well-protected and patrolled, and vandalism is rare. The same goes for the stone walls around the city. During a recent political march, protesters wanted to paint slogans on the walls, but they carefully covered them with pieces of card first to prevent any damage. They are very proud of their walls.
The glory of Machu Picchu
Perhaps the most famous archaeological site in Peru is Machu Picchu, a lost Inca city hewn out of the mountainside and “discovered” in 1911 by Hiram Bingham – who found it while looking for another lost Inca city, Vilcabamba. After leaving people behind to clear the ruins, Bingham set off into the jungle once more, little realizing that the city he had stumbled across would one day become Peru’s biggest tourist attraction. In a picture-postcard setting, the incredible buildings and breathtaking location of Machu Picchu make the stonework come alive with history.
The site is made up of a collection of temples, houses, altars and carved stones, all balanced precariously on the mountain as if they were about to topple over. Certainly, as a place of retreat for the Incas, it has an ‘inaccessible’ quality about it – you would see invaders from miles around. Even so, it was never really ‘lost’ – when Bingham made his entrance there were campesinos (farmers) living on and working the land.
However, when you are talking walls, the biggest and the best as far as this author is concerned are still found right here in Cusco at Sacsayhuaman. Machu Picchu may have the location and most of the fame, but that suits most lovers of Sacsayhuaman just fine – sometimes you can wander around completely by yourself and not see another tourist all day.
The stones also create a spiritual presence for many people – you can even get married there. The biggest festival in the Inca calendar, Inti Raymi, is held in celebration of the sun and takes place at Sacsayhuaman over the June solstice. Tourists and locals alike flock to the fortress to watch displays of dancing and recreations of life in Inca times. For many Peruvians, it is a pilgrimage and a return to their roots. The surrounding stones bring the exhibition to life and are an integral part of the festivities.
I have also known people to have their own private spiritual experiences there. One friend was walking among the walls in the moonlight (a popular time to visit Sacsayhuaman is during the full moon) when she felt an electric current pass through the air and witnessed images of Incas from times past, dancing in full regalia. Without a doubt, there is an indefinable quality of spirituality in the atmosphere. So, whether you love fascinating stonework, want to feel history living and breathing around you, or simply feel like a peaceful stroll beside walls that feel as old as time, Sacsayhuaman is waiting.
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