You haven’t truly grabbed the bull by the horns until the snorting beast has tossed you skywards into a somersaulting flip over its massive head; after quickly planting your hands on its heavily muscled back, you spring off into the arms of a friend, steadying you after the acrobatic thrill of a lifetime.
Thirty-five hundred years ago, you might have performed that stunt at Knossos in the Palace of King Minos, ruler of Crete and master of the Aegean. This palace, the Labyrinth from the legend of Theseus, still sprawls down a ridge nestled in a valley that runs to the north coast of central Crete, just outside of Iraklion, the modern capital of the largest island in the Aegean.
Standing in an ancient courtyard, I gazed through a pair of stone horns that perfectly framed a mountain on the south end of the valley, particularly the twin peaks mirroring the stone monument to the powerful bulls that the palace residents so greatly honored. Later, after Mycenean Greeks stormed the shores and captured the palace, the bull came to represent Poseidon the Earth-Shaker, who ruled both the stormy seas and the earthquakes that wracked the land with such destruction. To the original rulers, the bull also represented the fertility and bounty of Mother Earth, easily seen in the graceful curve of the stone, more sacred than realistic.
A day later and 90 miles directly north, my breath stopped as I spotted the same sacred curve, the same powerful horns, set in stone within the ruins of Akrotiri. This town, once buried by volcanic ashes and time, is now being unearthed and hailed as the Pompeii of Greece. Once, Akrotiri enjoyed prosperity and peace under the sway of their powerful neighbors to the south, the Minoans. The harbor on the south shore of the island protected Akrotiri from fierce summer winds barreling down from the north, the meltemi. As the closest major Cycladic island to Crete, Akrotiri blossomed amidst the numerous merchants circling the Aegean.
Then, this quiet island exploded.
In a volcanic fury unmatched in human history except for Krakatoa, the isle now known as Santorini shook its fiery fist at the empire of King Minos. As the center of the isle sunk into the sea, it belched forth a pillar of billowing ashes familiar to anyone who witnessed the eruption of Mt St Helens. The residents of Akrotiri, warned perhaps by tremors in the weeks before, had already fled, leaving no jewelry behind.
The residents of the palace at Knossos were not so lucky.
Beneath the palace, the bull bellowed. Wooden pillars snapped like matchsticks. Tumbling walls smashed the giant amphorae of olive oil arrayed in once orderly rows beneath the palace. As the oil spilled across the quaking floor, torches fell to the ground, and after the first flicker of flame, a firestorm soon engulfed the palace.
A short distance away at the harbor of Amnisos sat the ships that ruled the Aegean as the fortress of the Minoans. For a brief moment, they lay landlocked upon the beach as the sea withdrew before crashing back in a wall perhaps hundreds of feet high, perhaps one of the largest tidal waves ever. By the time the water rushed up the valley, it might not have caused much destruction at the palace itself, but it did leave the navy of the Minoan Empire as splintered wreckage.
The black skies snowed ash upon the fertile eastern half of Crete, turning day into night. The haze cooled the atmosphere enough to disturb the delicate balance of nature, compounding the disaster caused by the ash choking the soil that fed the Minoans. It must have seemed that the Mother Goddess had abandoned her chosen people, and while many must have escaped the destruction at the palace, their joy must have soon turned to sorrow. With no food and no navy, the capital of the Minoan Empire became easy prey for the Mycenean Greeks on the mainland who gladly crossed the sea to pick up the mantle of King Minos and rule the sea themselves.
The luxury of the palace at Knossos dwindled as Myceneans squabbled over the loot. One of the most advanced civilizations of the ancient world sank into obscurity when those waves crashed upon the shores of Crete, perhaps giving rise to the legend of Atlantis.
The above story may be part legend as well, as archaeologists and geologists still fiercely debate how the Minoan Empire crumbled like crushed pumice. Yet at Knossos, black ashes still scar the walls, evidence of a terrible fire. At Akrotiri, it still takes many feet of digging before reaching the buildings buried by a great eruption. The whitewashed houses of Santorini, perched on the lip of an enormous sea-filled caldera, still look down on smoke spiraling up from the Burnt Isles growing ever so slowly, lava flow by lava flow.
Legend of the half-man, half-animal
On Crete and Santorini, legends stare you in the face, impossible to ignore.
One of the best novels to bridge the gap between history and legend is The King Must Die, by Mary Renault, which brings to life the Minoan era through the eyes of Theseus, son of the King of Athens. Because of a past crime committed by Athens against the Minoans, they must send to Knossos seven men and seven women every seven years to serve as bull dancers in the court of King Minos. Theseus becomes a famed bull leaper, dazzling Minoan eyes with his agility and grace. He catches the eye of the high priestess of the Goddess, daughter of the King, and earns the enmity of the King’s boorish son, who is known as the Minotaur for being so bull-headed, though not literally.
Luckily, Theseus has a knack for sensing the imminence of earthquakes, so he is able to help his fellow bull dancers escape the palace before it is destroyed. Before he does, the high priestess, Ariadne, helps lead Theseus through the labyrinthine bowels of the palace to a throne room where Theseus mercifully kills her leprosy-stricken father and then battles the King’s son, who dons a ritualistic bull mask. By giving reasonable explanation for how Theseus killed a creature that was half-man and half-bull, Renault helped create the modern-day fascination with the Minoans which still lives on today.
At Knossos, the intrigue lies in knowing where history ends and legend begins.
The ritual entrance to the palace, flanked by columns and frescoes, winds back and forth, up stairs and down before reaching the large central court. The east side of the palace cascades down the slopes in a maze of audience halls, bedroom chambers and workshops, linked together with a Grand Staircase that cuts through the various levels. Imagination whispers how easily the complicated layout could transform into the legenday labyrinth, supposedly built by Daedalus to hold the Minotaur in its maze.
The word labyrinth comes from labrys, the double-axe, a sacred symbol to the Minoans. They carved the axe into the very stones of Knossos, as a ward against earthquakes. Towering double-axes flanked the throne, representing the sacred power of kingship.
Frescoes found at Knossos depict the slim bodies and majestic leaps of bull dancers and a finely detailed gold cup from the mainland depicts how bulls were captured, using female calves as bait before nets were flung. A rhyton used for pouring wine comes in the shape of the head of a black bull, gold horns curving up from the stern brows. While no ritual bull mask has been found, the bulls which gored dancers in front of a cheering audience over centuries could become a monstrous creature in a maze whose defeat symbolized the victory of the mainland Greeks over the naval hegemony of the Minoans.
Protected by great power
Knossos fascinates not only because of legendary adventures, but because of the peaceful glory found there. No walls, no towers surround the palace. The navy was enough to keep Crete safe for hundreds of years and the sacred aura of kingship, servant of a powerful Mother Goddess, justified the rulership of Knossos over the land. Ivory statuettes of the Goddess, or perhaps her high priestess, depict a strong woman with flounced skirts and bare breasts clutching snakes in her hands. Reclining griffons flank the throne of the king, yet so do pastoral flowers and vines, reflecting the earth’s bounty. One fresco depicts the king or a prince in fanciful garb with delicate feathers and splendid jewelry. Indeed, gold rings found there demonstrate the wealth and artistry of the Minoans, with their intricate signets buzzing with bees, sun, thrones and goddesses.
The connection of the Minoans with the natural world is remarkable, noticeably more symbiotic and harmonious than today. Even the columns of the palace, which narrow from top to bottom were once trees, turned upside down so that their roots would not dig back into the ground.
Many of the frescoes also depict scenes from the sea, such as the bright blue dolphins in the Queen’s bedchamber. Octopuses often grace the high-quality ceramics, with their wide eyes and meandering tentacles wrapping round the pottery. Similar pottery in Akrotiri shows the cultural reach of the Minoans. The frescos in Akrotiri are also remarkably beautiful, often depicting fisherman or journeys across the sea.
The profusion of images from the sea is not surprising, since this is where the strength of the Minoans came from. As the predominant naval power in the region, they controlled trade between mainland Greece, the Cycladic islands and the coast of Asia Minor. Their trading links also stretched southeast towards Cyprus, the Levant and Egypt. The tombs of the pharaohs depict images of Minoans, their style of dress matching that found in the native frescoes. Indeed, the imagery of Minoan art reflects that of Egypt, with people often depicted from the side, though Minoan art is more fluid and human than the stiff Egyptians’. Minoan writing has also been found in Egyptian tombs, often regarding their trade links. In fact, the first Minoan writing, which was hieroglyphic, probably developed from their links with Egypt. Perhaps not surprising, since the first Minoans perhaps fled Egypt for Crete long before they began building palaces and galleys that rowed across the Mediterranean.
Other palaces in Crete are also testaments to the graceful power of the Minoans, especially the one at Phaistos. However, Knossos is particularly fascinating because it is so intact. Controversy surrounds Knossos, because Sir Arthur Evans, an Edwardian archaeologist in the early days of the 20th century, did not just examine the ruins he found, but he also reconstructed many of the buildings. Some of these efforts were necessary, since the structural supports of wooden columns had long since vanished, and without extensive restoration, the many levels of the palace would have collapsed upon each other. Some of his restorations have been described as fantastical and perhaps inaccurate, with much guesswork used to fill in the gaps left by crumbled frescoes. The “treelike” columns seen today are actually concrete, their earth tones guessed at from colors found in frescoes.
Yet whether or not Evans perfectly captured the historical Knossos, all that vanishes when you walk through the wide open space of the courtyard, step into the throne room, and walk down the stairs to peer into the queen’s bedchamber. The evidence of a high level of civilization fascinates, from the intricate and sanitary sewage system to the well-ventilated rooms, perfectly built to take full advantage of seasonal breezes. Myth walks alongside you down the corridors of the palace, mingling with the awe felt at looking on one of the oldest streets in Europe, a sacred way from nearly 4,000 years ago.
Equally important to understanding the Minoans is a visit to the Iraklion Archaeological Museum, where the cultural treasures of the Minoans are displayed, from Knossos and elsewhere in Crete. The humanistic statuary, the natural scenes upon the ceramics, the intricate gold jewelry, the frescos that rival those found at Pompeii: all hint at the artistic minds of the Minoans.
The ruins of Akrotiri, while perhaps not as extensive as the buried cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum, are still intriguing as an example of a trading outpost of the Minoans. Walking between the buildings and peering into the doors and windows brings to mind myriad questions on who these people were and what their lives were like.
Where to learn and see more
The newly opened archaeological museum in Fira, the main town of Santorini, sheds light on these lives. The collection, while small, is excellent, as the curators chose to display the best examples from each era. Thus, each Cycladic figurine, a paragon of serene simplicity, speaks volumes. The pottery tells stories of the daily habits of the residents of Akrotiri. The frescoes displayed here tell more about the lives of these people at play and work, whether boxing or hauling in strings of fish, than about their attitudes towards kingship.
Outside of these fascinating Minoan sites, both Crete and Santorini offer fantastic landscapes and charming towns that merit exploration in their own rights. Visiting both islands in the same trip is very worthwhile, not only because of their convenient connections by air and ferry, but also because of the fascinating contrast between the two.
Crete is an enormous island, the largest in the Aegean, with a spine of mountains running from west to east. This rugged land offers rugged backroads, hiking through stupendous gorges, and quaint harbor towns unique for their Venetian and Turkish influences. Santorini, on the other hand, is relatively small with most towns atop the cliffs circling the caldera. The dramatic romance of Santorini truly shines in its sunsets, when the last light splashes across the sun, lighting the sea on fire as it sinks past distant islands on the horizon.
On Crete, the best places to stay are on opposite ends of the island. The Old Town of Chania, with its medieval walls and protected harbor, is a perfect base for exploring the wilder western side of Crete, hiking the Samarian Gorge, the longest in Europe, or just enjoying Chania’s winding streets, small but interesting archaeological museum and lovely restaurants on the harbor.
The pensions in Chania are charming to stay in. These small hotels are often converted from elegant houses or Venetian palazzi, and looking out your window on the blue waters of the Aegean is simply splendid. It’s a nice contrast to Iraklion, which although it’s centrally located, is a much larger industrialized city clogged with traffic and cement-block buildings.
Resorts have choked a once beautiful stretch of coast east from Iraklion to Malia. More pleasant is the area around Aghios Nikolaos, a haven for artists enjoying the sandy beaches and glorious views of Mirabello, the Gulf of Miracles. The best accommodations there are a few resorts of excellent quality, which offer waterfront bungalows right on the beach. This area is convenient for visiting some of the Minoan palaces such as Malia and Phaistos, exploring the thousands of windmills on the Lassithi Plateau, or visiting the Diktaen cave, the legendary birthplace of Zeus. If your time allows, a week or two exploring both western and eastern Crete allows you to enjoy the full variety that Crete has to offer.
On Santorini, it is an absolute must to stay in one of the pensions on the rim of the caldera. Many options abound, as many of the local houses have been converted into excellent accommodations. The most unusual are those that were once “cave houses,” their arched interiors dug into the cliffs offering a cool respite from the hot summer sun. Expect to climb down some stairs, as most accommodations spill down terrace by terrace from street level. That means climbing back up, but the journey is well worth waking up to look west on one of the largest and most beautiful calderas on earth.
The main town of Fira is lively and cosmopolitan, alive till late in the night. Quieter is Firostefani, the “crown of Fira”, a 10-minute hike up the road. Next on is Imerovigli, more isolated but perfect if you want a respite from the hustle and bustle, and simply want to revel in relaxation. Around a curvy mountain road, Oia sits isolated from the other town on the northwestern tip of the island. The quaint shops and rooftop cafes, with their seductive sunsets, offer a special kind of luxury.
While on Santorini, you may want to visit a winery, drive to the top of Profitas Ilias for a stupendous view of the surrounding islands, visit the classical site of Thira, soak in the sun on the black-sand beaches of the eastern side of the island, or spend a day sailing in the caldera, visiting the sulfurous waters surrounding volcanic islets at the center.
Spending time on these islands give you a sense of the deep connection which the Minoans had with the sea. Visiting the sites and museums brings to life a world which thrived in a time nearly as distant to the classical Greeks as King Arthur is to us today. Your visit to Crete and Santorini might not involve clutching a bull’s horns in an act of acrobatic agility that seems almost magical. Yet it will surely entrance you with the sacred beauty of a landscape ruled by the bellowing bulls of Poseidon and the serene beauty of the Mother Goddess.
No Upcoming Events Added! Please Stay Tuned. Thank you.
»